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For my mom’s mid-century modern inspired dining room decor, I envisioned DIY silk curtains to add a little sparkle and luxury to the small space. Because the wallpaper was so neutral and the ceiling color so soft, I really wanted to use a fabric with richness and depth for the draperies. Luckily her apartment has big windows so that was a nice highlight. An online fabric store generously provided the fabric of my choice and today I will show you how we sewed these DIY silk curtains.
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But first, how perfect is the color of these DIY carpet curtains? I chose everything online for my mom’s makeover. It can be so hard to come up with an invisible room scene because monitors and photography can really distort colors, but these two elements worked in the end
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Together in the redecoration of the dining room! The pictures on the Online Fabric Store website were really realistic and made it easy to choose a complementary drapery fabric (this is “Premium Spa Silk Shantung Fabric”).
I love the look of silk curtains and had them in my office, in the townhouse, but I didn’t do anything fancy – just used curtain rings with snaps (see below). It was an easy way to make affordable curtains, but it didn’t do much to stand out from the page. I tried adjusting the rings and kind of “bloating” the top of the curtains to encourage a nice gathering and drape, but in the end this simple DIY curtain idea fell a little flat. But god, silk is beautiful. I was excited to try DIY silk curtains again, but with a more polished approach.
My mother and I have become a little neat from our townhouse days, with drapery hooks, pleats and tabs on the back. Here are my best DIY curtain tutorials: DIY Tab Curtains, DIY Tape Curtains, DIY Gathered Curtains, and DIY Tiered Curtains. I have also shared shower curtain instructions: DIY Basic Shower Curtain with Buttonholes and DIY Ceiling Shower Curtain with Split Liner. One of the reasons we started using the back tab method is because when I first bought my white curtain rods, I could never find matching curtain rods. The solution: back tabs! No curtain rings needed. You’ve seen my printed tweed curtains with these white stripes and updated green tweed curtains in the bedroom and matching aqua tweed curtains in the office. I gave my mother my white curtains because we couldn’t use them anymore after we made the windows bigger. I was so happy that she was able to put two of my four curtain rods back in as they are now too short for my windows. Still unable to find matching curtain rings, for these DIY silk curtains we went back with the tab – but with some adjustments to properly drape the silk fabric.
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Before you cut the tabs, determine how many tabs and how wide you want them to be. The width of the tabs will determine how the finished curtains are assembled. This page has a nice weight and sharpness, which lends itself to narrower cards. Sometimes, unless you’ve backstitched your curtains a lot, it takes a little trial and error to get the “perfect” look you want. The first set of tabs we cut and joined were a bit too wide and thus created sharper folds than we wanted. We were aiming for a softer drape. You can watch the first attempt here:
We ended up redoing the tabs to half the width, so the new tabs are 1 inch wide and about 4 inches long (with 1/2 inch tucked under the seam), allowing you to adjust the width of the tabs see change in the tutorial pictures. For reference, the finished tabs are 1 x 4 inches on a curtain panel that is 54 inches wide and we used 9 tiles for each curtain panel.
In the past we used fabric from curtains to make tabs. This time we decided to use a piece of white curtain lining fabric with a similar weight and stiffness to silk to save more silk for the actual curtains without skimping on length or hem. A nice plunging hem always gives a more elegant look and helps to draw in the curtain panels.
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In the photo below you can see that we took a piece of white lining fabric that was 9 inches wide and folded it in half. To determine the length you need depends on how many cards you want to make and the width of those cards. Using our 1 inch tab width, add 1/4 inch on each side for the seams (seam allowance), so you need a total of 1.5 inch width for each tab. With these numbers, measure the length of fabric you need and cut it. With the fabric folded in half, we measured and marked the tabs, taking into account the 1/4 inch seam allowance I mentioned.
Well, there are two ways you can cut and sew these tabs, and I’ll show you both!
We recommend an Olfa cutter, a ruler (a metal straight edge – not a plastic one like we used, as these Olfa cutters can cut plastic) and an Olfa self-healing tab separation pad. Here’s the first, slightly more labor-intensive way to do it: Cut the tabs before you sew them, by cutting down the middle of the three lines marked in step one (the other two lines are the sewing lines). Then sew the sides of each tile, one by one:
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If you choose to do it this way, you will end up with a bunch of tabs ready to sew along the seam lines you marked:
An easier way is to sew the seams first and then cut the tabs on the line between the seams, as in the photo below. That way, instead of cutting 18 little strips and making the seams individually, we figured out how big each tab would be and marked the seam allowance (1/4″ allowance). With the marked tabs we sewed the seams (outer lines) and
In short, for both methods, fold the fabric and measure and mark the tabs. Then sew them all together and clip or clip and sew. Anyway, it works! Then you just have to turn them upside down and press them flat.
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If the tabs are 1 inch wide, which is a fairly narrow channel, we found it easier to turn them inwards by pressing them with a pencil (rubber end) or a knitting needle if you have one (blunt end):
Then press the tabs flat and you are ready to attach them to the top of the curtain panel.
When sewing the curtain panel itself we used a 4″ wide strip of stiffener/header/drapery tape (can be marked as one of these) on the top seam. the one that it comes in a roll rather than some pre-measured in a package, as it can be too soft or bent, which can cause unwanted creases in your finished product.
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Here you can see that we have already attached the gusset/drapery strip with a 1/2 inch seam folded over and topstitched (dad tip: we skipped the side seams because the fabric was nicely finished at the edges) :
Then it is folded over and 1/2 inch tabs are attached underneath (be sure to tuck the raw edge of the tabs so it is hidden):
In the next picture, the lighter row of stitches on the right is where we attached the silk to the stiffener with a 1/2″ stitch, and the darker row of stitches on the left is where we attached the tabs the stiffer/head attached. band and the actual body of the curtain. Now that everything is sewn, only one more row of stitches needs to be attached to the tips of the tabs.
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In the next picture you can see that one end of the tabs is still loose (the finished end), so fold them to the top of the curtain. We used pins to hold them in place because we were trying to avoid making a lot of holes in the page. The tactile nature of this particular silk is nice to work with as it is not too smooth so the needles worked well.
Then we sewed the remaining side of the tabs. Make sure you leave a small hole for the curtain rod. Diameter of
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